Five-day itinerary – Snæfellsnes and the Westfjords

Alternatively, instead of the ferry between the Snæfellsnes Peninsula and the Westfjords, it is possible to travel overland.

Main attractions

Ytri Tunga · Búðakirkja · Arnarstapi · Lóndrangar · Kirkjufell · Rauðisandur · Látrabjarg · Dynjandi

Other attractions

Eldborg · Gerðuberg · Ölkelda · Bjarnafoss · Miðgjá · Gatklettur · Bárður Snæfellsás · Djúpalónssandur · Saxhólsbjarg · Skarðsvík · Kirkjufellsfoss · Berserkjahraun · Selvallafoss · Flatey · Hellulaug · Krosslaug · Garðar BA 64 · Reykjafjarðarlaug · Ísafjörður · Naustahvilft · Bolafjall · Bolafjall Viewing Platform · Ósvör · Valagil · Lambagil · Bulafoss · Arngerðareyri Kastallinn · Grábrók · Glanni

From Reykjavík, we head north and in the town of Borgarnes (where you can stop for groceries) we take road 54 towards the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. The first attraction is the Eldborg crater, which you can hike up to the rim of. Shortly after that, there are two geothermal pools – Landbrotalaug and, for the more adventurous, Sturlungalaug. But this is not the last opportunity for geothermal bathing on our route.

Further along the road, just a short detour from route 54, is the largest basalt cliff wall in Iceland – Gerðuberg. A short stop for refreshments is worth making at the mineral spring Ölkelda, where you can fill up on mineral water for a small fee. This will keep you refreshed for spotting seals at Ytri Tunga beach. After you’ve had your fill of lounging seals, we continue to the iconic black church with white windows Búðakirkja, and nearby the Bjarnafoss waterfall. There are even more impressive waterfalls ahead, so if you’re short on time, you can simply drive past.

We arrive in the village of Arnarstapi, which has several attractions and is a good place to spend your first night. Arnarstapi lies right below the Snæfellsjökull glacier and is famous for its clifftop house viewpoint. However, there is much more to see here – the natural rock bridge Miðgjá, a favorite spot for photographers, the rock formation Gatklettur, and the six-meter statue of the mythical figure Bárður Snæfellsás.

Continuing west along the coast, we reach the impressive basalt cliffs Lóndrangar – visible from the road, though a 30-minute walk leads closer. Next is the black pebble beach Djúpalónssandur, as well as Saxhólsbjarg cliffs. A particularly interesting stop is the Skarðsvík beach, which is made of golden sand – unusual for Iceland – and offers a contrast to what’s ahead.

We continue along the coast to possibly Iceland’s most famous mountain – Kirkjufell. There are countless viewpoints, but the most iconic is with Kirkjufellsfoss waterfall in the foreground. Even if it doesn’t seem like it at first, you will likely spend two to three hours here.

Continuing along the northern coast, you can take the gravel road 558 through the Berserkjahraun lava field, and just after that detour slightly onto road 56 to visit Selvallafoss waterfall, where there is also a nice rest area. After that comes the port town of Stykkishólmur, where you can spend the second night before taking the ferry to Brjánslækur in the Westfjords.

The ferry stops at Flatey island, where you can disembark and wait for the next departure – but you must leave your car on board. There is also a campsite on the island if you wish to spend the night, but you must bring all supplies with you.

After leaving the ferry, we continue west, and just a few kilometers away is the geothermal pool Hellulaug, located right by the ocean. Another option is the small pool Krosslaug a few kilometers further along, where a small entrance fee applies. You can pass Barðaströnd beach, as our next major destination is the red sand beach Rauðisandur. On the way, we pass the shipwreck Garðar BA 64, which is worth a short stop.

It is important to know that Rauðisandur beach has a catch. While the smaller southeastern section is accessible most of the time and is a good place to see seal colonies, the larger northwestern section is only accessible around low tide – roughly two hours before and after. You definitely do not want to wade through freezing seawater.

After visiting Rauðisandur, you return via the winding road 612 back to route 62 and continue to the end, reaching the majestic Látrabjarg cliffs. Látrabjarg is one of the largest sea cliffs in Europe and a nesting site for hundreds of thousands of seabirds. Puffins often nest near the beginning of the cliffs, so you can see them quite close to the parking area. The cliffs stretch for 14 kilometers, and you can explore as far as you like.

Our next major destination, with a possible relaxing stop at the geothermal Reykjafjarðarlaug pool along the way, is Dynjandi waterfall. Dynjandi is the jewel of the Westfjords – nearly 100 meters high and 60 meters wide at the top, it is one of Iceland’s most impressive waterfalls. Beneath it, there are also seven smaller waterfalls as a bonus.

After that, nothing stands in the way of heading to the town of Ísafjörður. If you have some time, a good first stop is the viewpoint Naustahvilft near the airport, known as the Troll’s Chair. With some courage, you can also visit Bolafjall mountain and its viewing platform, offering views over Ísafjarðardjúp fjord and all the way to Hornstrandir. For a glimpse of local life, the maritime museum Ósvör in Bolungarvík is also worth a visit.

From Ísafjörður, we head east, following the fjords. At the end of the first fjord is the ravine Valagil, and at the end of the next is the valley Lambagil with the waterfall Bulafoss. Although Valagil is better known, Lambagil is often a favorite. Further along, right by the road, is the viewpoint Litlibær – seals can often be seen here, sometimes in large numbers.

After that, a long drive takes us back toward the beginning of the fjords, with a stop at the abandoned house known as Arngerðareyri Kastallinn. On the return route toward Reykjavík along route 1, we pass the Grábrók craters and the nearby Glanni waterfall.

Where to shop: Borgarnes, Stykkishólmur, Ísafjörður